I sincerely hope you do not need this guide. The beauty and privilege of being in London is the freedom to wander for hours without retracing your steps, with so much of the city within reach by public transport. There is an almost impossible concentration of food from around the world, of art, culture and history. I have lived here most of my life, and still cannot claim to 'know' London. It is constantly evolving. These are the places in my own corner of it that I keep going back to.
I wish I were less familiar with this popular new spot, but unfortunately I have personally met a double-toasted-everything-bagel-with-pastrami-pickles-mustard-emmental-and-Russian-sauce and there is no going back. If you surrender to a lack of discipline as I have, the loyalty card is a worthwhile badge of honour.
Tucked into a residential street off Camden Road, this local takes its food seriously without losing its pub character. During a recent renovation, we regulars watched anxiously through steamed-up windows as the beautiful wooden panelling was systematically removed. "Ruined!" we cried, only to be embarrassed a few months later when it was restored to an improved former glory. The renowned stone-baked pizzas, to our relief, were preserved too.
An architect's home filled with a lifetime of collecting, from Roman sculpture to an Egyptian pharaoh's sarcophagus. This eccentric dose of sensory overload warrants signing up for the tour: whole walls swing open to reveal hidden Hogarths. Without a guide, I would have reliably set off an alarm or two by leaning on the wrong wall.
A neighbourhood deli that moves easily from sandwiches and provisions to wine and small plates. The evening selection centres on low-intervention European wines, with seasonal food alongside. It is beautifully designed, with a long communal table, travertine ledges to perch on, stainless steel stools and linen curtains.
A neighbourhood pub on a quiet residential corner, with a kitchen worth making plans around. The deck out front becomes a sun trap through the evening, and stays open later than others nearby. My best friend and I meet here every Thursday, so a word on etiquette, lest my name be whispered after an offence: please queue from the door to the bar. There has been a recent epidemic of swarming, and as a 5'4" woman with limited bar presence, I take issue with it.
A family baking name with roots in the 1920s, revived by a new generation. Bread and pastries are made on-site, with substantial sandwiches giving you a reason to visit beyond breakfast. The jerk chicken focaccia sandwich is generous, but do not offer to share it until you have taken your first bite. I guarantee the offer will be withdrawn.
The home and studio of Victorian painter Frederic Leighton, built around his artistic ambitions and travels. Its extraordinary Arab Hall brings together antique tiles from Damascus, Turkey and Iran in a richly decorated interior. It is a transporting place, and one that makes me wish I were a more talented artist, so that I could sit and draw all day.
A cocktail bar within Assouline's flagship bookshop, surrounded by lavish volumes on art, design and travel. Browse the shelves before settling in for a Manhattan, not after: the books are far more expensive than the cocktails, and far more tempting once you have had one.
Run by the Salvino brothers, this deli began life as a cash-and-carry in 1979. The sandwich counter cannot be overstated, with an overwhelming selection of bread, cold cuts, cheese, pickled items and more. The opening hours can be a little improvisational, which I have decided is part of the charm of a family business. It has never once stopped me coming back.
A slice of Paris on Formosa Street. Traditional French comfort food and an extensive wine list make a persuasive case for a long dinner. They provide blankets for those brave enough to risk an outside table in England, and an exceptional, piping-hot French onion soup as backup.
UCL's zoological collection brings the animal kingdom into close, sometimes unsettling focus. Look for the skeleton of an extinct quagga and the famously peculiar jar of preserved moles. It was a stone's throw from the laboratory where I studied, though given the number of animals in formaldehyde looking back at you, I will reassure you that I was not a regular. One visit, particularly to the Micrarium, is fascinating.
A small Vietnamese restaurant on Willes Road, with just a handful of tables. A straightforward neighbourhood stop for a steaming bowl of pho. I recommend the rare beef. If you are ordering in on a school night, they thoughtfully pack the beef separately, so it does not overcook on the journey.
A fishmonger and seafood restaurant on the edge of Hampstead Heath, with a menu shaped by the day's catch. At lunch, choose a fish from the ice and have the kitchen cook it for you. Their vodka martini is also a standout, as are their £2 happy hour oysters.
Two floors of antique and contemporary textiles gathered from around the world. Rugs, embroidered hangings and traditional clothing reward close inspection; this is a shop for anyone drawn to colour, pattern and the work of human hands. If you're lucky enough to have Mr Graham working during your visit, he is encyclopaedic and patient.
A neighbourhood café with a deli counter and a serious interest in wine. Take a terrace seat for brunch, or pick out cheese and charcuterie to accompany a glass later in the day. The street is full of great spots, so it could easily fill a whole day. (An honourable mention goes to Layla bakery around the corner, if you want an excuse to begin exploring early.)
A Victorian pub beside the Thames, with a large garden between Hammersmith and Putney bridges. Make it a stopping point on a riverside walk. The coveted front deck requires a food order, but the roasts are excellent, so come hungry.
A welcome escape from Shaftesbury Avenue, this basement bar has distressed plaster walls, low lighting, great music and always a buzz. Highballs lead the drinks menu, though my personal favourite is the negroni. It is the perfect midway point for someone like me, who doesn't suit a club but is still wide awake when the average pub calls last orders at eleven.
