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Pasticceria Valzani
Trastevere · Pastry shop

Making sweets on Via del Moro since 1925, Valzani preserves Rome's confectionery traditions. A friend introduced me to the dark chocolate-covered figs here, and in the process burdened me with a lifelong pilgrimage.

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Mercato di Testaccio
Testaccio · Market

A little outside the centre, this market has around 100 stalls and plenty of reasons to linger. Here, my internal debate about whether to shop hungry reaches its loudest. While one hand responsibly buys a cauliflower, the other goes unsupervised and accidentally acquires a beautiful slice of Roman pizza.

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Sora Margherita
Jewish Quarter · Lunch

A tiny dining room on Piazza delle Cinque Scole, serving Roman favourites. They do a fine carciofo alla giudia - the celebrated fried artichoke - but I quietly prefer its cousin, carciofo alla romana. Sora Margherita’s version, braised with a stuffing of garlic, fresh mint and parsley, is exceptional.

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Santo Stefano Rotondo
Celio · Church

A fifth-century circular church with a startling interior: its outer wall is lined with sixteenth-century frescoes depicting martyrdom in gruesome detail. It is a tall order for your planning, but should you serendipitously time your visit to coincide with a wedding party, stay for the full service. The acoustics are worth it.

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Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Historic centre · Gallery

A family art collection housed in the splendour of its own Roman palace. Italy's talent for exercising your neck muscles is unmatched here: impossibly ornate ceilings, coated in frescoes, will make you grateful that the breakables are kept well away from the walkway.

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Antica Caciara Trasteverina
Trastevere · Gourmet local deli

A neighbourhood cheese and provisions shop with more than a century behind it, and a nightmare for anyone who suffers from choice paralysis. Every cheese, cured meat, oil and wine is hand-picked for its quality. I hope you are reading this with enough warning to bring an empty bag.

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Il Goccetto
Near Campo de' Fiori · Wine bar

Beneath an old "Vino e Olio" sign, shelves of bottles crowd a small wine bar on Via dei Banchi Vecchi. Beneath an old “Vino e Olio” sign, shelves of bottles crowd a small wine bar on Via dei Banchi Vecchi. Its charm is effortless, and the wine gives you every reason to linger. I regret that I know no more elegant word for it, but the staff retrieve out-of-reach bottles with a litter picker, which provides the added benefit of anxious entertainment all night.

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Trattoria da Cesare al Casaletto
Monteverde · Dinner

This neighbourhood trattoria, whose reputation has travelled well beyond Monteverde, is consistently excellent. Vegetarians, close your ears: the oxtail rigatoni is unbelievable, and my mind drifts back to it on dreary London tube journeys.

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Cesare al Pellegrino, formerly Settimio
Via del Pellegrino · Dinner

The team behind Cesare al Casaletto has taken over this longstanding Roman trattoria. It is a modern step into an old cuisine, and masterfully done. Be sure to book, be in no rush, and leave room for dessert and sweet wine.

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Bar San Calisto
Trastevere · Bar

Marcellino has run this Trastevere institution since 1969. Its February 2026 refurbishment brought a new counter but familiar prices: espresso was still 90 cents and a large Peroni €2.50 when it reopened. Smuggle a generous scoop of the fantastic homemade gelato into your coffee and watch the world go by.

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